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Posted 03/31/2011

On the Subject of Italian Cooking

Italy recently celebrated it’s 150th anniversary as a unified country. To many Americans it comes as a surprise to learn that Italy is such a “young country,” but of course the regions that make up Italy represent some of the oldest cultures in the World. In fact, Italy is the source of one of the worlds oldest known cookbooks and perhaps the oldest with surviving text. Written in Latin by a Roman four to five hundred years after the birth of Christ, the book is known as Apicius or sometimes by it’s subtitle De re Coquinaria, which translates to “On the Subject of Cooking.” This remarkable text served as the model for all cookbooks for well over a thousand years and provides a fascinating view into ancient diets. Many of the foods we associate with Italian cooking were actually brought back to Italy from the new world by Christopher Columbus, including tomatoes! Still we can see the origins of modern Italian cooking in Apicius. The full text of a translation from the 1930s is available for free at the Project Gutenberg website. Divided into 10 books, it seems that the entire work does not survive, since there are no sections for breads and cakes, even though bread is mentioned as an ingredient throughout. Continue Reading…

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Posted 02/01/2011

Sea Urchins, for the First Time

Food and travel are a perpetually linked in my memories. As I move deeper into my forties, I’ve noticed that the nature of my memory is changing…it’s somewhat less fixed and document-like, more of a tapestry and food makes up an increasing portion of that imagery, especially first tastes. One of my all time favorite new food experiences was eating ricci di mare (sea urchins) in Gallipoli, Italy about 20 years ago.

I was a college student spending the summer in a small town in Puglia, essentially the insole of the boot that is Italy. After several weeks of soaking up the Southern Italian sun, we decided to go to Gallipoli (situated on the heel of the boot) to see the sites. One of the must-do spots in that ancient city, and former Spanish colony, is the Castello Angioino. While touring the storybook thirteenth century fortress with the Ionian Sea lapping at every wall, I noticed an outdoor fish market off to one side. Now I’ve always been a sucker for any type of food market, but especially traditional old word markets with many small individual sellers. They are great places to learn about new foods and local cuisines. Even though we were far from our rented house, with no ice chest to transport fish back to our little kitchen, I decided to explore a bit. Continue Reading…