Dog Day Cooking
Ancient Romans referred to the time period between July 24 and August 24 as “dies caniculares,” or “dog days,” and blamed their late-summer misery on the rage of Sirius, the dog star. Present-day New York City is a long way from ancient Rome, but some things never change: the dog days of summer can be miserable. And while most of Italy shuts down during August while Italians head to the beach, I’m afraid no such respite is in store for me. The worst part of August’s relentless heat and oppressive humidity is that my interest in cooking begins to wane. Why turn on my stove when the entire city has become a gigantic convection oven?
Well, the great beauty of Italian summer cooking is that there need not be much actual cooking involved. A caprese salad is mostly just assembly, and is never tastier than in the middle of August, when tomatoes are at their sweetest and juiciest. Pasta with pesto is always a satisfying, not-too-heavy summer dish, and why not? Basil thrives this time of year, its heady aroma laced with a spicy, anise-scented edge.
For those who are brave enough to pre-heat the oven to the 450° mark, a whole roasted fish, butterflied and stuffed with slivered garlic, thyme sprigs, and sliced lemon is a summertime dinner that looks far more complicated than it actually is. And for dessert, ice-cold watermelon or a scoop of tart sorbetto afloat in prosecco will cool and refresh the palate.
In his seminal 1964 book, The Italians, Luigi Barzini describes the Italian culinary sensibility: “Things frankly smell, look, and taste as they should, every component sharply differentiated and true to its nature…Everything is eaten fresh and in its proper season, when it is at its absolute best…Italian cuisine merely presents Nature at its best.” I couldn’t agree more. Summertime dishes like composed salads, simple pastas, and effortlessly elegant entrées like fish or tagliata are straightforward, easy to prepare, and–most of all–delicious. I may not be headed to Rimini, but I’m definitely headed to the kitchen. Maybe the dog days of summer aren’t so bad, after all.
