Some Fava Beans and a Nice Chianti
After a frigid and seemingly interminable winter, daffodils have begun appearing here in New York City. As the days grow warmer and longer, I find that I no longer crave the soul-warming sustenance of winter’s slow braises, stews, and baked pastas. Instead, I hunger after lively flavors that sing of springtime, and nothing typifies spring more than the classic pairing of fava beans with pecorino cheese.
Fava Beans (Vicia Faba) and Pecorino are an ancient combination, borne of the Tuscan culinary wisdom that makes the most of what is fresh and readily available. In the spring, Tuscan sheep begin grazing on young spring grasses. The sheep’s early milk becomes marzolino, a “little March” cheese whose herbaceous pungency pairs beautifully with the creamy, tender fava beans that appear each spring.One of the easiest and most traditional ways to enjoy fava beans with pecorino is to make bruschetta con fave. I’ve also eaten fava beans on their own, tossed with small chunks of pecorino and dressed with a grassy extra virgin olive oil. A sprinkling of fresh mint adds brightness and a hint of sweetness.
Be forewarned: fava beans are, as far as produce goes, somewhat labor-intensive. Favas are available pre-shelled or frozen, but I recommend finding a shelling partner and preparing your fava beans the old-fashioned way. Trust me. It’s gratifying. Pour yourselves a couple of glasses of Chianti, put some Louis Prima on the stereo, and before you know it, you’ll have a bowl full of freshly shelled fava beans.
First, you’ll want to remove the beans from their pods. Next, blanch the newly liberated beans in salted boiling water for about a minute, and then shock them in an ice bath. Once they’ve been blanched and shocked, the fava beans will pop easily from their little jackets, audaciously green in color and boasting a nutty, slightly bitter flavor.
The humble fava bean once saved Sicilians from a terrible famine. Even now, legend has it that favas bring good luck and abundance. One thing is certain: however you decide to enjoy them, fava beans will bring all the vibrant flavors of Italian springtime to your table. Buon appetito!


















